Tips & Tricks

FYI - Identifying the different types of Mego Spider-Man

FYI - Identifying the different types of Mego Spider-Man

FYI - Mego body vs Mattel DC Retro Superheros body

FYI - Mego body vs Mattel DC Retro Superheros body
Here is a comparison of the Mego doll body and the Retro Action doll body

 

Being the Mego fanatic that I am, I was curious to see how the Retro Action doll body was made. This is where I was most impressed. At first I had thought the bodies were too thin, but now I think they are just right. The sculpting is much better, the shoulder joint is excellent and looks like a shoulder! (Mego dolls do not have defined shoulders and the ability for posing the Mego arm/shoulder is also limited. The metal hooks that hold the arm onto the doll often get stuck on the edge of the arm hole, and it can be frustrating to get the arm back into position. This has been completely avoided with the Retro Action doll.) I also like the defined shape of the torso and the legs are also well sculpted. I like the way the knee joint is hidden, and less noticeable than the Mego knee joints. In terms of sculpting and design, the Retro Action doll body is far superior to the Mego!

My only complaint about the Retro Action doll body is the "floppy" midsection due to the elastic not being strong enough. This unfortunately limits the poseability and functionality of the doll. The doll's legs cannot be posed to stay in position, such as a kicking action, they way Mego dolls can. In addition, the top half of the Retro Action body does not stay upright easily, and tends to tilt to one direction so that the figure looks bent forward. As a result, the Retro Action dolls do not stand up on their own very well and it takes some patience to straighten the figures to a natural position. I would trust a Mego Type 2 doll to stand on its own without a doll stand no problem, but not a Retro Action doll.

DIY - Ideas for Vinyl Printing and Dye Cutting

DIY - Ideas for Vinyl Printing and Dye Cutting

This is just to give some ideas in case you were interested in doing vinyl printed and dye cutted decals for Megos. The Cricut Explore Air 2 vinyl cutter seems to be the must versatile and inexpensive cutter to use for this. You can also create your own decals for vehicles, playsets, but you will need a seperate printer. I went with the Canon MG6821 inkjet color printer for my color prints. This is someone else's video but it gives a clear understanding of how to use and make your own decals

DIY - Techniques for Painting Eyes

DIY - Techniques for Painting Eyes

Although the model is not a Mego this gives a great tutorial for eye painting that I think a lot of use dread doing. 

Fix it Guide - Degreying a Mego head

Fix it Guide - Degreying a Mego head

DIY - Mego Box Template via Mego Museum

DIY - Mego Box Template via Mego Museum

 

DIY - How to shrink a Mego head - Mego Magyar

DIY - How to shrink a Mego head - Mego Magyar

Ok here is the process I use to shrink a head where the mold shrinks. The first way is the Smooth On process using their NOVOCS solvent and Mold Star 16 silicone rubber, the solvent thins the silicone and evaporates shrinking the mold and they have basic instructions on their website. Buying the material will run around $70 and unless you have a lot to shrink that seems expensive. The method I use s based on the same process but doesn't cost as much.

The silicone rubber I use is Amazing brand from Hobby Lobby and if you use their 40% off coupon it will cost about $13 and you can make 3 molds. Normally I don't use it for molding heads because it doesn't degas itself well and there can be air bubble issues, it's ok for a pour over mold but not as good for a dip into mold like for molding a head.

Now for the steps in shrinking, these are general guidelines. I use Naptha as the solvent and the thinner silicone mix doesn't have the air bubble issues that I mentioned. To shrink a head from 9" size to Mego size I mix 3oz of silicone, 2 scoops of catalyst and a generous 1oz of Naptha - no more than 1.5oz, don't go over a 2 to 1 ratio. The more Naptha the more shrinking but the mold will also be weaker. It usually take about 4-5 oz of material for a 9" head mold but you check beforehand with some water and a measuring cup in the container you are using for the mold and adjust things accordingly. Let everything dry before pouring the mold. Mix the silicone and catalyst thoroughly and then add the solvent. It will take maybe 5 - 10 minuets to mix the solvent in thoroughly and there is an even texture. The cure time is about 4 hours, you'll know it's done because the mold will feel firm. After removing the head use a rubber band, not to tight, to keep the mold together. This is an evaporation process and there will be a tendency where you cut it to dry quicker because of more exposed surface and to open up at that spot so the band keeping things together helps for an even shrink. Also this process doesn't seem to work as well for bigger molds, 1/6 scale heads, some shrink well and some don't.

Molds should be as shrunk as it's going to get in 5-7 days,

One thing to keep in mine is that Naptha has fumes so use in a well ventilated area.

Also, I wouldn't use this process with Oomoo as that is a weaker silicone rubber to start with.

Use 5oz paper cups for molds

Given a choice and if I were going to shrink enough to make buying the Smooth On stuff worth it I would buy the Smooth On but for an occasional couple of heads this other way works and I don't have to worry about things going bad sitting around

Fix it Guide - Mego Type 1 body restringing

Fix it Guide - Mego Type 1 body restringing

CLICK HERE TO ORDER ELASTIC KIT

Fix it Guide - Mego Type 2 rubber band replacement

Fix it Guide - Mego Type 2 rubber band replacement

CLICK HERE TO ORDER ELASTIC KIT

Fix it Tip: Replacing the Mego band

Fix it Tip: Replacing the Mego band

Fix it Tip: An ideal replacement for the bands inside me go figures, O rings - #40 or #67 - you can find them in the plumbing section of Home Depot or Lowes. A set of 10 rings costs about $2.00 Thank you Paul Clarke

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